The Last Day in Chile

In the aftermath of the madness of New Years Eve, we all woke up simultaneously around 11 a.m. in the hostel. That is, everyone except one person who never made it back but later turned up OK. Joking around about what went down and just laying in bed, Adam and I didn't make a move until 1 p.m. when we were invited to get lunch with one of his friends and his student. The student was from Valparaiso and wanted to show him around and take him out to lunch, so we were told we'd be covered.

We expected to just get some lunch and come back to the hostel to kill the day. Our bus back to Santiago wasn't until 6 p.m. and we felt pretty lousy, so we were just going to sit around all day. Instead, we went on a great day trip. The student, who was a 45 year old who worked in a government education institution called DUOC picked us up in his immaculately clean car. Driving around Valparaiso towards Vina del Mar, we saw many of the things we'd already come across.

Adam and I weren't paying much attention to the conversation up front and we soon started to wonder where we were going. We'd passed through Vina and were now heading up a hill on the outskirts of town. We pulled off the road and saw a view of Vina del Mar and Valparaiso. It's a view most tourists probably don't know about. Luckily we were with a local. He also knew so much history and information about the area and Chile, and it was great to listen to him speak.

The man was well traveled, having been to every country in South America, many countries in Europe, and the U.S. ten times. We talked about the differences between many of the Latin American countries. Still in his car we continued to drive around the area to the surrounding towns that we'd otherwise have never seen. There were a lot of Argentinians on vacation in these beach towns, but no gringos.

We eventually came to a town called Concon and we stopped for lunch. Adam and I agreed that it reminded us of a Cape Cod town, in the sense that it was summer and many of the people who live in Santiago would come here for a weekend to spend time at the beach. It also felt like it, with that relaxed attitude and laid back atmosphere.

When we entered the restaurant the man shook hands with all of the waiters and we were taken upstairs to a room on an outdoor patio with a reserved table. He was a regular apparently and was taken care of very well. He told us that in many restuarants in Chile, tables will always be reserved for the regular customers even if they haven't made a reservation. We felt like we were VIPs.

Ordering pisco sours, we asked his advice for the best local dish, and he recommended a fried fish which we later found out was eel. A big plate of Parmesan clams was brought out, and though he wanted to get wine as well, we were still hungover and the pisco was enough. I taught him the phrase, "Hair of the dog."

With a beautiful view of the ocean right in front of us and the wind blowing in gently, it was extremely relaxing and impressive that we should wind up in this place. We were glad with our decision to come out for lunch. The fish came out with big plates of fries and we dug in. This was my first time having the sea food in Chile, and I was very glad I was able to try it. It wouldn't make much sense to come to a port city and not try the sea food. After the meal we got coffee and though we offered to pay, the man wouldn't hear of it. He dropped over 48,000 pesos on the meal, and we'd just met him.

I told him that whenever I made it back to Boston and he was in town I'd take him out for a meal and show him our sea food. We drove around a bit more and though we were close to 6 o'clock, he showed us another view of Valparaiso from a different hill. He then took us back to the hostel to pick up our stuff and drove Adam and I to the bus terminal. It was a great day.

We took the hour and a half bus ride back to Santiago, and headed back home to relax and watch the Bruins. Among our friends we joke around with the line from "There's Something About Mary," which is, "Who goes to Santiago, Chile twice in a year? I've never even been to Jersey, man." Once Adam told us he was going to Santiago this became a popular joke. Since I technically left Santiago and went back, I can now say I've been to Santiago, Chile twice in one year. Of course, Adam pointed out that I got there in 2008 and returned in 2009, but I think it's the 12 month cycle that counts.

I had to leave at 4:40 a.m. to catch my flight at 7:55, and of course my alarm clock decided to reset to 0:00:00 in the middle of the night. A phone call from the front desk at 4:50 told me the shuttle was outside waiting, so I immediately threw on my clothes and ran out the door. A rude way to wake up to a long travel day.

After connecting to Lima, Peru on to Guayaquil, I was finally back in Ecuador by 1 p.m. Then another 4 and a half hour bus ride to Cuenca, and by 6:30 p.m. I was back home. A long and tiring day, but worth the trouble to have the fun that we did in Chile.

Above: a view of Valparaiso, lunch at the restaurant, a view of Vina del Mar and Valparaiso

New Years Eve Mayhem in Valparaiso

Fireworks after midnight

Someone is excited

Groups of friends sitting, drinking, talking, waiting

Setting up shop hours before midnight

After waking up and getting our act together on December 31st, we had to check out of the hostel and kill some time. The reason was that we still didn't know where the next hostel was, and we had to wait for a message from Adam's friend to find out where to go. They wouldn't be in Valparaiso until 3 pm, so we walked around trying to find Pablo Neruda's house. Though he rarely visited it, there's a museum up there.

Adam had already tried and failed to find it on his last trip, so we used the map carefully and though we passed it at first (it was horribly marked) we found it. Only going to the point where we didn't have to pay money, we sat around and eventually made our way back down the hill to get some lunch and sit in the park waiting to hear the news.

Finally at 3:45 p.m. Adam sent a text and his friend gave him the address. Oddly enough it wound up being the same hostel we'd gone to the day before but were told was booked. It turns out our own reservation was the reason we couldn't stay there the night before. The coincidence stunned us as we marched back up the hill to the hostel.

Meeting up with Adam's friends, we dropped off our things and walked around a bit, scoping out good places to hang out later on. Though it was only 4:30, people were already claiming their spots on the lookouts by the hills. We all got heavily stocked up on alcohol, walked around a little more, and eventually went back to the hostel to rest up. Just like in Kindergarten, all ten of us laid down at the exact same time in the room crammed with beds and took a 30 minute nap. Waking up at the same time we were ready to go.

We took in a drink on the balcony and watched the hordes of gringos and Chileans going by. Unfortunately it was overcast the entire day, because the sunset would have been incredible from the view by the hill. I'm writing a story about the New Years celebration for GoNOMAD, so I'm not going to spill the beans just yet on what the party was like. But it's listed as one of the top 5 parties in the world, and it definitely lived up to its reputation.

After the crazy night in Valpo, I had one day left in Chile before heading back to Ecuador. To be continued...

Out of Santiago, On to Valpo

Just to get the record straight so that the dates match up here. I am now back in Cuenca after a long travel day, but I'm going back in time to talk about what happened since I last updated. Here we go...

Several days of just hanging out in Santiago were good and relaxing. The guys had a great apartment and we were able to have a couple of barbecues on the roof, giving us a wide view of the city. The plan was to go to Valparaiso for New Years. We'd done some research and found out that the city is listed as one of the top 5 cities in the world for New Years Eve parties along with New York, Hong Kong, London, and Rio de Janero. Some of Adams friends were renting an apartment with a bunch of beds in a hostel, so we hopped on board even though it was a ton of money for the one night.

I wanted to see the city before all of the craziness, so Adam and I went to the city a day early. Zach couldn't go because he had work the morning of New Years Eve. There weren't many hostels left so we took the first one we could find online. When we got in to Valpo we could see that the weather was considerably different. Every day in Santiago is roughly the same--hot and no clouds at all. In Valpo, however, it was colder and overcast. Walking from the bus terminal to find the hostel, the city seemed ugly and cold.

Winding our way up the hills we got the hostel but were told that they made a mistake and they would have to walk us over to their sister hostel in the center. There was no room because everything was already booked. So we went to the new hostel and found a very friendly staff who even gave us a discount on the room. Dropping off our things we went to walk around the city. Adam had already been there twice so he was able to navigate more easily through the streets. Soon the sun broke through the clouds and it was hot. Without my hat or sunblock, I was an easy target and was starting to burn.

Walking down by the port we saw the Pacific Ocean, then headed up into the hills via one of the ancient "Funicular" elevators, which scale the incredibly steep hills to take you to the neighborhoods that surround the crest of the slopes that the city was founded on. We'd heard that the hills can be a bit dangerous, so we watched our backs as we explored the area, taking in all of the murals and artwork that the city is known for.

Once we'd seen enough we went back to the hostel to grab hats and sunblock, and then caught a bus to the neighboring town of Vina del Mar, where everyone goes to the beach. We walked past some fancy looking hotels and casinos and eventually sat on the wall by the beach for an hour or so taking in the sights. Earlier in the day the weather was lousy, but now everyone was out enjoying the sun in the sand. The sun doesn't set at this time of year in the area until 9:30 p.m. It threw me off the entire week and changed how I ate, usually making me eat later as a result. We headed back as the sun was starting to dip down and took a nap, tired after a long day of walking.

For dinner we went to a famous restaurant in an alley called J. Cruz, which is known for a dish made of fries, scrambled eggs, onions, and steak. We shared it and though we wanted it, knew it was terrible for our health. Just looking at it would give someone a heart attack. The place was completely packed, and they shoved people in at communal tables. We got there just in time though, because when we left we could see the line extended far down the alley.

Grabbing a few beers at a bar, we eventually called it a night in order to prepare ourselves for the mayhem that would take place for the New Years Eve party. It would rock our world in terms of crazy, city-wide parties. More to come on that tomorrow.

Above: Street murals which cover the city walls, the port of Valparaiso, a shot of the streets, sky blue house against sky blue

Cajon de Maipo

On Saturday afternoon, after borrowing money left and right, I finally went looking for a money exchange but was disappointed to find that they were all closed. I had to settle on an ATM and took out way too much money because we were confused by the exchange rate. I took out 200,000 pesos which wound up being around $300. 

Our plan was to go to a community called Cajon de Maipo, which is about an hour and a half away from Santiago, yet is still considered a part of the city. We had heard that there are vineyards there and wanted to go on a tour. After the long trip via the subway and small "collectivo" bus along a beautiful drive towards the mountains, we got off in the small town. By the time we got in it was 5 p.m. and we were all hungry, yet we weren't sure what to do. 

The bus driver had recommended a restaurant, so we walked around trying to find it until we saw a sign that said "Donde Bruno". The restaurant would go unnoticed by most people, as it's actually in a house with the tables in the backyard. With a view of the surrounding hills, we were given a few options and settled on the lomito a la pobre. The enormous portion of steak was topped off with two fried eggs, delicious fries, and amazing onions. I don't even like onions, but I actually ate these because they were so good. We had bread with a great, spicy sauce that cleared out the sinuses and drank some delicious wine that went down so smoothly.

I'm loving the food in Chile. The empanadas are all good, the meat is juicy and served with nice sides, and I've still got so much to try. The drinks are tasty (except for the beer, Escudo, which is just like any other beer in South America) and the wine is terrific. Sitting there in the beautiful town with the great meal, we truly were enjoying ourselves. We thought of how our friends could be sitting in their houses in New England, unable to go outside, and we were happy with our decisions. 

After our late lunch we walked around the town and then headed home. Our plan was to have a barbecue on the 18th floor roof of the apartment building at night but we were so full from the late lunch that we just had some bread and dip around 12:30 a.m. after our late naps. The rooftop view was great, giving a vista of nearly the entire city and the surrounding hills. Somehow I was even able to see some stars, despite being in such a big city with pollution. I'm not even sure how it's possible, but I think I saw Orion's Belt. I'm pretty sure that should only be in the Northern Hemisphere. 

Sitting on the roof with a couple of drinks, listening to music, I even saw a shooting star go by around 3 a.m. An end to a great day. And today we're going to watch football from 3-12. For the first time all season I'll be able to see the Patriots play. Hopefully they'll have some good luck. In a couple of days we'll be heading to Valparaiso, a city two hours away on the coast. The New Years Eve celebration is supposed to be one of the biggest in the world, so it should be a crazy time.

Chilean Experience

On Christmas day there was nothing to do. Though it's not a big deal down here, everything was still closed, save for a Chinese restaurant or two. So around 3 p.m. we left the apartment and got a huge lunch at a Chinese restaurant a few blocks down. The streets were eerily empty, and when I yelled an echo could be heard all along the avenue of high rises. 

The rest of the day was spent just sitting on the couch and waiting for the Celtics/Lakers game to start at 7 p.m. A few people came over to watch via the Sling Box in the computers. Sling Box is a program that you can buy and install in your computer. I don't know the technical terms, but it connects to your cable box in the United States and you can watch the same shows going into your cable box from anywhere in the world as long as the box is still on. Of course with my luck, the Celtics lost their first game in a month as I watched my first game of the season.

The next day Adam and Zach had to work in the morning but were back just around the time I was waking up, so it wasn't too big of a problem. I only changed $40 at the airport and was running out, but every time I tried to find a money exchange we somehow got side tracked. One of the things that the guys do here is just sit around and relax. They have a very nice apartment with a TV, Internet, and comfortable furniture, all in the center of the city. Sleeping on the couch and watching so much TV, I think I'm averaging 14-15 hours a day on the couch. I have literally become "the guy on the couch" from "Half Baked."

Normally when I go on trips I try to get as much done as I possibly can, yet on this trip, we've been sitting in the apartment late into the afternoon. There just isn't that much to do in Santiago, I'm sad to say. With a population a little under 6 million, or roughly 1/3 of the population of Chile, there isn't much in the sense of tourism here. The main attractions are the natural beauties like Patagonia or the Atacames Desert, which are way too far away from Santiago to visit on my trip. I am glad to be here though, visiting my friends and seeing a new place. It could definitely be a nice city to live in, but not great for touring.

So late in the afternoon on Friday we finally left the apartment to walk around a bit. It was hot but dry, and because there's no humidity, unlike in Boston when you go into a shadow it's actually cooler. First we visited a couple of markets where everyone was soliciting us to eat at their restaurant, yet they were polite about it and let us be as we walked by. Next we continued on to a hill nearby with the statue of the Virgin. It's called the Funicular S.A. and costs about 1,400 pesos or $2 roughly to take the elevator to the top of the hill. 

The top will give you a nice view of the city which expands far beyond the horizon, yet with so much smog and haze, it's hard to see the mountains in the distance. On the top we got some Rico Mote con Huesillos, a traditional drink with peaches and grains that is delicious. 

After getting down we stopped at a bar for a beer on the side of the road, trying to hide under the umbrella to avoid the sun, and later went home for a nap. Picking up a bottle of pisco, which is kind of like whiskey, we started off the night and didn't actually leave until 12:30 a.m., a standard practice, going to a bar until about 4 a.m. 

Before heading home I was told I had to try the "completo" hot dog, which was a hot dog covered in avocado, tomatoes, ketchup, aji sauce, and mayo. It was OK, not great, but it got the job done. Heading up we crashed and got ready for another day of taking it easy.

And the Nominee for Worst Travel Day Ever Is... Part 2

Part 2

As I waited and waited my patience was growing thin. I could see on the reader board that my plan was still listed as delayed, and now instead of leaving at 12:40 pm, would be leaving at 12:50 pm. Not a big deal, except that you always have to add more time to when you actually leave from what the board says. I walked around to the different stores and read, wrote again, and just stared into blank space. It was mind numbing and miserable, thinking of everything and nothing. 

I examined my hands closely, noting every single line and dimple in the design. I would have killed for an iPod at this point. 10 pm rolled around and of course nothing was called. I sank into the chair and tried to keep my mind busy. All I wanted to do was sleep. I still had the grimy, acidic taste on my teeth from when I vomited earlier in the day, never getting a chance to brush. 

The plane hadn't even arrived yet and it was midnight. As other passengers and planes left the terminal, I was wondering if I would ever make it. Finally the announcement was made and we started to board. We took off a little after 1 am, after 12 hours of just sitting around in the airport. Originally, I was supposed to get to Lima and immediately board the next plane. There are no planes at 3 am, however, so I had to wait until 7:30 am for the next flight out. 

The flight to Lima took an hour and a half, and I couldn't sleep. Once there a LAN representative gave us food vouchers for a soda and meal of chicken, rice, and vegetables. So at 3:30 am I had my third dinner. For the next few hours I cat napped on the benches, but sleeping in the airport is so miserable that it was nearly impossible. At one point I dreamed that my called my name on the PA and actually went up to see what happened. As I walked my body was numb and it felt like my head was just floating. I was totally out of it. 

The sun was starting to come out and it was now impossible to sleep, so I waited by the gate until we boarded for the 3 hour flight to Santiago. Leaving around 8 pm and adding the two hour time change, we got into Santiago around 12:30 pm. I slept for a while on the plane but as we were descending into Chile I could see the Andes mountains, some peaks still snow capped. 

In the airport I immediately had to pay a $131 "Reciprocity" fee that all Americans have to pay as a result on our visa restrictions on Chileans. Canadians, Mexicans, Australians, and Albanians also have to pay but at different costs. The line was huge and I was last, but when I got up I tried to argue that I live in Ecuador, which didn't work. Then I said I'm getting citizenship with Argentina, which made me a citizen technically. But without the passport, I couldn't do anything about it.

Already this was an expensive trip, and now the fee took away a few days budget. I easily found my bag and followed my friends directions to the van company, paid 5000 pesos (about 10 dollars) for the ride into town which is far from the airport. A taxi could cost 10,000 pesos. With other passengers to make the price lower, we drove away and I was surprised at how arid the climate seemed. Traffic was bad and it was hot, but dry. 

I made it to my friends street, located in the center, finally around 2:45 pm local time. And after traveling for around 28 hours, tired, sweaty, and stinky, instead of passing out we grabbed some Chilean empanadas and walked around. After a shower of course. Still in disbelief that I'd finally arrived, it was time to relax.